I love supper. It's friendly and relaxed. It's easy to invite people over for supper, for there's a quality of comfort that isn't always there with dinner, a meal that suggests more serious culinary expectations-truly a joy to meet, but not all the time. Supper, on the other hand, is for when friends happen to run into each other at the farmers' market or drop in from out of town. Supper is for Sunday night or a Thursday. Supper can be impromptu, it can be potluck, and it can break the formality of a classic menu. With supper, there's a willingness to make do with what's available and to cook and eat simply. It can also be special and beautifully crafted if that's what you want.